Thursday, December 31, 2009
2009 Bike Rides
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The ride to Maryland was the longest at just over 100 miles, my only century of the year. I have to add a few extra miles in Fairmount Park to reach that threshold. The ride to Trenton was my last major ride of the year. I didn't so much seek out that city itself, but wanted to ride along the Jersey side of the Delaware River until I reached the first available bridge beyond Philadelphia to cross back into Pennsylvania. My last ride of the year was a short out-and-back through Fairmount Park on Halloween (not shown on the map as is completely overlaps over rides). There is one other ride not on the map, a nine mile ride through the Great Dismal Swamp near Norfolk, Virginia, my only non-local ride of the year.
Wednesday, December 30, 2009
Amphitheater Lake Trail
Notwithstanding a late arrival at my hotel the previous night, I started early in the morning, picking-up breakfast and some sports drinks while driving the Lupine Meadows trailhead. I intended to drive straight there, but couldn't resist stopping for several views of the mountains especially one at Cottonwood Creek Turnout with the golden aspens in the foreground, which I actually backtracked to snap a picture.
Despite the stops, I reached the trailhead in time to start the hike around 9:00 AM. After only a few hundred flat yards, the trail began it's relentless 3,000 ft climb up the mountainside. To the right, I could catch only a few glimpses of the imposing mountains through breaks in the forest. After about a half mile running south—parallel to the face of the mountain—the trail bent right and started running along a 'toe' of the foothills, a ridge with dropoffs on either side. I tried to catch a peek of the mountains ahead, but the trees and hills limited commanded the view.
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Two miles in to the hike, I reached the first trail junction. Beyond this point, the serious climbing started. Several switchbacks angled up the steep face of the hill alternating between open and forested hillside. After mile-plus of this scenery, I reached a second trail junction and sat down for a couple minutes to rest. Again, beyond this junction, the landscape changed. The climb remained steep, but white, moss-covered boulders gradually took over. The air also smelled of a pleasant pine forest as the lodgepoles gave way to more gnarly conifers.
I took more frequent breaks as I trudged up the last few miles of trail. At 11:49 AM, I reached Surprise Lake (elev. 9,540 ft.) just a short distance downhill from the end of the trail at Amphitheater Lake. Leaving the trail, I walked along the shore of the lake to find its outlet. Here, the views of Garnet Canyon and Jackson Hole encouraged me to stop, rest and snack for a spell, which I did even though I couldn't find a comfortable boulder—out of the hundreds piled about—to sit.
At 12:15 PM, I left Surprise Lake and completed the last ten minutes of the trail to Amphitheater Lake (elev. 9,698). True to its name, the lake resides in a natural amphitheater with Disappointment Peak rising in the back, and Jackson Hole opening out in front. Very scenic to be sure, but I wanted to see the majestic Teton Peaks from up close, or at least as close as a bumbler like me is apt to get so I continued passed the end of the official trail.
My extra efforts were amply rewarded. A rough trail disappeared halfway up a ridge to the north of the lake. Scrambling of the rocky terrain, I reached a precipice overlooking Glacier Gulch. I had gone as far as I could prudently go, but straight ahead was Mount Owen. I mistook this the second tallest peak for Grand Teton, the tallest mountain the range—only after returning and sorting through pictures did a realize the error. No matter, the view was truly grand and a satisfying conclusion to the hike.
Well, I did still have to hike down the mountain, but that was a breeze compared to the ascent. On the climb, I had been so preoccupied the route and mountains ahead that I didn't consider the vast valley stretching out behind me. On the down hike, most evident in the breaks in the forest halfway down, Jackson Hole filled my field of vision. Making good time, I reached the car at 3:20 PM and promptly began the drive back to Salt Lake City.
Trip Statistics
Length: 11.4 miles
Time: 6 hours 18 minutes
Elev. Change: 3,327 ft.
Max Elev.: 10,048 ft.

Elevation Profile

Monday, December 28, 2009
Detour
On this, my second, trip to Yellowstone, I had two 'must-see' places to visit, Mount Washburn and Artist Paint Pots, both on the north side of the park. Having entered into the southern half of the park, two factors conspired to complicate my efforts: road construction and a forest fire. A loop road connects the two halves of the park. Road construction closed the western leg of this loop for the season; a forest fire intermittently closed the eastern leg.
I managed to depart early in the morning on my second day in the park, hike Mount Washburn and return to the critical junction to find the road still open. There, I considered taking satisfaction in a partial success and returning to the southern part of the park. This option would bypass Artist Paint Pots, but it would also leave me closer to Jackson, Wyoming, and my bunkhouse for the night. I opted for against it and spent the afternoon exploring Artist Paint Pots and nearby Norris Geyser Basin.
Hours later upon leaving Norris Geyser Basin, I spotted a ranger set-up in the road ahead, and had a pretty good idea the news she would deliver: the road to Jackson was closed. So instead of a 127 mile, three-hour drive, I had a 324 mile seven-and-a-half hour drive, an extra 200 miles and four-and-a-half hours, ahead of me.
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Two months later, I recognize my losses were minor: a few hours (most of it in the dark when you can't do much else but sleep), added driving fatigue, and some gas money. In return, I achieved my two 'must sees' for the trip, spent a wonderful few hours in Norris Geyser Basin, drove through Montana's picturesque Paradise Valley in the waning hours of the day, and stopped along the road to hear the some nighttime geyser eruptions and elk bugle calls. All that considered, maybe it wasn't such a bad risk to take. Not that I wouldn't decide differently if I had it to do over again.
Sunday, December 27, 2009
Philadelphia City Hall
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Our tour group consisted of three people: the guide, a gentleman from Boston, and myself. We started with about 40 minutes on the outside of the building. The guide pointed out a few sculptures and reliefs, I'd walked by numerous times but never appreciated. He showed the special door where the paddy wagon would deposit prisoners for their court date in courtrooms up above. A bystander appeared interested as we stood over a tiled abstractions of William Penn's plan for the city, but an alternate agenda, angrily chastising the guide for not mentioning that William Penn owned slaves.
The building has over 700+ rooms. We visited a few of the major ones including the Mayor's Meeting Room, now used for Press Conferences; the council caucus room, where they conducted business when they didn't want the pesky citizens listening in; and Main Council Chamber. We also went to the Pennsylvania Supreme Court Chamber. Reportedly, Pennsylvania has the only remaining traveling Supreme Court in the nation. The rotate between Harrisburg, Philadelphia, and Pittsburgh. This is where they meet when they're in town. The tour ended with a trip to the top of the 550' tower, a ride I've taken a few times before, but not in a few years, for great views over the city.




Sunday, November 22, 2009
Mount Washburn
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The trail started on the backside of an unmarked peak to the southwest of Mount Washburn. Less than a mile from the start, the trail swung around 180 degrees and I caught my first glimpse of the fire lookout on the top of the mountain. It wasn't so much the distance or the height that struck me, but that I appeared to be on the wrong side of a valley from my desitination. Unsure how the trail obtained the summit, I forged ahead knowing I find out soon enough.
Originally built as a road to the summit, the trail wide trail consisted mainly of crumbled asphalt or course gravel. Though it was a constant climb, much of the ascent came in the middle third in a series of long switchback. I got my first real expansive view while found the corner on after the last switchback. Not long thereafter, I surpassed the treeline. I took one short break on the in the last third of the hike, but still managed to make it to the top before noon, roughly an hour and forty minutes after I started.
I found the building at the summit to be far more substantial that expected. A large room with windows on three sides was attached to the south end of a three story fire lookout. An open patio covering the observation room provided the best views of the park, but cold winds kept my time there short. The ranger who resided in the lookout for the summer was packing out for the winter, which seemed a little bizarre with a large fire blazing to the south. Ominously, he grimaced when I said I had plans to stay in Jackson on the far side of said fire, but I wouldn't heed his advice to head directly south after my hike.
Tough I spent forty-five minutes at the summit, it seemed like a lot less time than that. After a few leg stretches, I started back down the trail arriving at my car a little more than an hour latter.

My first glimpse of the summit of Mount Washburn came after about 15 minutes of hiking. In another hour and half, I'd be standing in the observatory at the end on the trail.

Saturday, November 14, 2009
Purple Mountain Trail
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I first noticed smoke from a forest fire off to the southeast. At first, I thought it was a pretty neat sight, then I considered that my planned itinerary for the next day required driving on one open road in that direction. Directly south, I recognized Fountain Flats, the northern extremity of the highest concentration of geysers in the park and my next destination following the hike. Even though the views were great, I didn't tarry long before starting the return hike. I went fast enough to catch the hikers I met just before reaching the summit. Back at the car I had a pretty long chat with one of them while reapplying sunscreen.

Purple Mountain from Terrace Spring. Lighting changes during the day and season so the explorers probably saw purple mountain when the named it.

Arnica Fire as seen from Purple Mountain. I lightning strike started this fire a few days before my visit.




Trip Statistics
Length: 6.5 miles
Time: 2 hours 57 minutes
Elevation Change: 1,500 feet
Max. Elevation: 8,433 feet

Thursday, November 12, 2009
Logan Canyon
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This circuitous route allowed to drive the Logan Canyon scenic byway, easily the highlight of the trip. In prepare for the trip, I had even considered the possibility of seeing fall colors, but the trees at the latitude and elevation were ablaze. I stopped at a few sites along the way, most notably at the end of a side ride at Tony Lake. I might have skipped it because of the extra driving time and would have been poorer for not seeing the tranquil mountain lake. I only regret I didn't have time to start on one of the longer hikes that leaves from the area.
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Golden Spike National Historic Site
From Spiral Jetty, I started on the crude dirt road back toward the Golden Spike Visitor Center. But first, I investigated an auto-tour on the west side of the park. I misinterpreted a sign for a different road and thought the auto-tour was not suitable for for sedans. Having already had enough with unimproved road services, I went straight to visitor center. Though I acted on misinformation, it probably worked out for the best as I later drove the shorter east auto-tour route and expect I got a comparable if shorter experience.
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After watching the twenty-minute movie in the visitor center and making a few purchases at the gift shop, including for $10 Men to Match My Mountains, a Western history book that I started reading and am aleady impressed with, I went out to the actual spot where they held the joining ceremony nearly 150 years ago. The park has arranged the spot to match the famous picture taken at the event. Replica Jupiter and No. 119steam engines face each other just like they did on that historic day.
Leaving the visitor center, I drove east to a trail that uses pieces of the parallel grades for a two-mile circuit to the Big Fill, an engineering feat the Central Pacific built to carry their tracks over a gully in the side of the Promontory Mountains. There, they dumped as much dirt as needed to carry the tracks over the obstacle. But for the missing tracks (abandoned around 1900 and used for scrap metal during WWII), it looks it could still carry a train. The Union Pacific built a rickety trestle to cross the same gully. It didn't last nearly as long.
One noteworthy tidbit I learned on my visit is that both Railroads operated a station at Promontory Summit for about a year after joining rails. Passengers had to transfer between trains at this station to continue their westward or eastward journeys. In early 1870, the moved the junction to Ogden.

The Central Pacific graded the line to the left; Union Pacific to right.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Spiral Jetty
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The sculpture, built by Smithson in 1970, lies along the northeastern shore of Great Salt Lake. Golden Spike NHS is itself remote, but Spiral Jetty is sits fifteen miles down a progressively unfriendly dirt road. Once unable to tolerate the unforgiving road and sufficiently close to walk, I parked the car and started climbing the nearest hill, which mercifully was the correct one, Rozel Point, where I got my first view of the artwork.
Hiking along the edge of Rozel point for about a mile, I took pictures of the jetty from various angles. Once I couldn't see it from the ridge any more, I descended the hill to get a closer inspection. The water level was so low that the lake didn't even lap against the edge of the jetty. I walked to the very end and back, about a half a mile it total. At the very end some one had arranged pebbles to spell out "you matter," a nice sentiment.
Before returning to the car, I explored a nearby, functional jetty and walked to the the very edge of the Salt Lake. I tasted the red, brackish water (salinity 27%), but reflexively spat it out without drinking. The salt beach had a slight give in it, and salt crystals chimed, as I walked back to the solid jetty.
For more information, click here to read the Wikipedia article on Spiral Jetty
Elevation Profile

Trip Statistics
Length: 4.8 miles
Time: 2 hours 15 minutes
Elevation Change: 433 feet
Max. Elevation: 4,629 feet
Great Salt Lake from Rozel Point. Spiral Jetty in the foreground.
Spiral Jetty from the shoreline.

Start of Spiral Jetty

Great Salt Lake Shore

Rozel Point.
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Ick!
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A light, but tolerable, rain fell as I started on the city streets toward the Schuylkill recreation path. Many other people braved the uninviting weather. About two miles out the rain intensity increased, not to a heavy rain, but strong enough to ruin a ride. Rather than turn around, I opted to press forward at least as far a East Falls, and then double back on the opposite side of the ride. By the time I reached East Fall, the rain ceased. I didn't take the bait. I turned south into a warm, forceful headwind, back toward downtown Philadelphia. In the end I rode hardly more than 10 miles, probably a third of it in discomforing rain, but I glad I managed to get at least that much today.
Current Weather Status: people are using umbrellas.
Statistics
Length: 12.4 miles
Ride Time: 59 minutes
Total Time: 59 minute
Avg. Speed: 12.4 MPH
Max. Speed: 16.6 MPH
Avg. Cadence: 66 RPM
Cumulative Ascent: <100 ft.
Max. Elevation: <100 ft.
Monday, October 26, 2009
Yellowstone 2009
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Whereas on my first trip I flew to Denver, this time around I landed in Salt Lake City, which is closer to the park. In fact, it was the the cheap, direct flight to SLC that first lured me to that airport. Only after purchasing the plane ticket did I opt for an itinerary leading to Yellowstone. Once on the plan, I discovered an added bonus. Delta had equipped it with a fancy entertainment system that allowed me to play trivia against other passengers or watch live TV on the small screen built in to the seat in front of me. I did well on the trivia, winning quite a few rounds, but not earning the high score for the day. Sadly, ESPN was one of the few live TV channels that didn't work so I couldn't watch the Thursday night college football game.
I spent the first day and half taking an indirect route to Yellowstone. Along the way, I stopped at a number of sites, including Spiral Jetty, Golden Spike NHS, Logan Canyon Scenic Byway, and the Teton Dam ruins. Once in Yellowstone, I stretched my legs on a six mile hike up and down Purple Mountain, before heading to the geyser basins for the rest of the day. I followed a similar pattern on Sunday, hiking up Mount Washburn in the morning and wandering about Norris Geyser Basin in the afternoon. It culminated on Monday with my most ambitious hike, the 3,000ft climb to Amphitheater Lake in Grand Teton National Park, after which I drove back to Salt Lake City to catch an early Tuesday morning flight back to Philadelphia.
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Yellowstone Photo Album |
(This photo album contains all the pictures used in the Google Map. You can also see any picture by clicking on a blue pin and following the direct link to the that picture in the album.)
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Sunday, October 25, 2009
Heinz NWR
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When I set out, I didn't intend to ride through the refuge, but it turned about to be a good destination. The fall colors still pretty vibrant, if a little passed their peak. It was nice to get off-road, and enjoy some quite riding for a short while. I don't get much opportunity to do that around here.
When I left the refuge, I was as far from my apartment as I would get. I headed north, as true as the roads would allow, stopping in a small strip center my company owns. Once in Springfield, I started heading west, first along quite residential streets lined with houses all prepped for Halloween; then, I caught Garrett street, a minor artery that headed straight in to Philadelphia.
All in all it was a pretty easy ride without much climbing. I hoped for 40 miles, but ended up clocking just under 30. Depending on the weather I hope to get at least one, maybe two, more ride(s) in before the weather gets too cold and the days too short.

Statistics
Length: 29.3 miles
Ride Time: 2 hours 41 minutes
Total Time: 3 hours 00 minute
Avg. Speed: 10.9 MPH
Max. Speed: 24.9 MPH
Avg. Cadence: 60 RPM
Cumulative Ascent: 850 ft.
Max. Elevation: 267 ft.

Train passing over Snyder Street on Elevated Tracks in South Philadelphia

Trail in John Heinz National Wildlife Refuge

Heinz National Wildlife Refuge

Philly Skyline over marsh in Heinz NWR

Deer on trail in Heinz NWRefuge
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Mosquito Range Hike
We rendezvoused at a lodge in Breckenridge, twenty or so miles from the trailhead, Dan drove us to the trailhead the next morning. We left around a quarter to six, stopped for breakfast at a gas station in Fairplay, and arrived at the trailhead, after official sunrise time, but before the sun actually rose over the mountains surrounding us. The last five miles of the journey covered a progressively degenerating dirt road.
The trail started over weathered-white rocks at the outlet to Kite Lake, a name whose logic is evident from higher elevations, and proceeded through an unoccupied campground. At 12,000 feet we were well above tree-line, but green grass covered the ground at the start. As they grass gave way to the talus of the mountainside, the gentle ascent quickly evolved to a serious climb that notified my lungs I wasn't at sea-level anymore.
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As we proceeded, a group of college kids at least thirty-strong started on the quiet trail behind us. They would stretch out based on ability so that beginning about an hour into the hike and continuing to the first summit I always seemed to be in their company or that of other hikers as they overtook me. Dan for his part proceeded ahead of me ten to fifty yards before stopping to let me catch up. Registering a whooping average speed of 1 MPH, we reached the saddle between Mt. Democrat and Mt. Cameron, a good place for a short rest, after an hour and half or hiking.
After a ten minute rest on the remnants of some mining operation, we took the left fork of the trail up the last 700 feet of Mt. Democrat. An hour later when I set foot on the USGS marker at this mountain's peak, I had officially summitted my first fourteener. We rested there among the crowd (20-30 people) for about twenty minutes, but it felt like half that to me.
Most people satisfied with reaching this peak, return to the parking lot from here, but we wanted to continue on to Mt. Lincoln, the highest peak in the Mosquito Range. To reach this 14,286 ft. mountain, we backtracked to the saddle where we had rested early and continued on the right fork of the trail up the west slope of Mt. Cameron, an extension of Mt. Lincoln (to be an independent mountain, a peak must rise at least 300 feet above the saddle that connects it to the nearest peak) . Simon Cameron, a senator from Pennsylvania, was Lincoln's first secretary of war, though I don't know if this fact played into the name of the peaks. All told we had lost and regained about 700 feet of the orginally gained 2,000 in elevation, between Mt. Democrat and Mt. Cameron. We unnecessarily wandered around the top for Mt. Cameron trying to devine which point was the highest on the broad peak.
After all the exertion, I enjoyed the short section between Mt. Cameron and Mt. Lincoln for it was comparably flat. Moreover, Mt. Lincoln projects like a prow from the line of the other mountains. Consequently, the forward views here were more open compared to the pile of rocks leading to the previous peaks. Lastly, Mt. Lincoln represented, not only the most distant point on the hike, but also the tallest mountain I would ever climb. Arriving at the summit around 12:30 we had made pretty good time, but not enough for more than another twenty-minute break for the common threat of late afternoon thunderstorms prompts wise hikers to be off the mountains by 3:00 PM.
With 3.5 miles of trail ahead of us, we set off for Mt. Bross, the last fourteener on the route. Mercifully the ridge to this last summit only drops 400 ft before beginning the to rise again. Indescribably exhausted by this point in the hike, I resorted to taking twenty steps forward before resting for 10 deep breaths. I repeated this pattern until I reached the summit (a broad-topped mountain like Mt. Cameron) at around 2:00 PM.
With dark clouds in the vicinity, we spent very little time on this last peak. Considering that it really was all downhill from here, I didn't mind the abbreviated visited. The menacing skies aside I was happy to to expedite completion of the hike, but not the point I didn't enjoy the great views, particularly of Mt. Democrat, the peak I had climb how many thousand steps ago.
Dan seemed more hurried on the descent. Trusting his experience, I traveled as fast as I could bear, but even walking down hill takes energy. I found the worst parts of the entire trail were on the top half of Mt. Bross. At times it seemed the trail slanted laterally 30 to 40 degrees. At others, the rocks felt so loose I'd sink up to my ankle in dirt and fear riding a rockslide the rest of the way down the mountain. Halfway down, we dropped from exposed ridge to semi-protected gulch and Dan seemed to relax. I anxiously sought the return of the green grass at the base of the valley. The clouds continued to gather and dropped a but a few sprinkles. The trail had one last surprise for us, the a 15-ft cascade hidden in a small cleft at the end of he gulch, a half mile or so from the parking lot.

Trip Statistics
Length: 8.0 miles
Time: 8 hours 3 minutes
Elevation Change: 2,286 feet
Total Climbing: 3,700 feet
Max. Elevation: 12,286 feet
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Back on My Bike
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Statistics
Length: 42.0 miles
Ride Time: 3 hours 58 minutes
Total Time: 3 hours 51 minute
Avg. Speed: 11.3 MPH
Max. Speed: 26.5 MPH
Avg. Cadence: 56 RPM
Cumulative Ascent: 2050 ft.
Max. Elevation: 422 ft.
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Glenwood Canyon
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[BN: The steep walls of the side canyon wrecked havoc on my GPS receiver. Hence, the track for the hike is riddled with error]
I would have been content to drive the canyon, but a little research revealed several trails depart from the multiple rest areas built along the highway. I chose a good leg-stretcher in Hanging Lake trail. Pulling in to the empty parking lot a little before 9:00 AM, I prepped for a tranquil hike only to see a mini-van pull up a few moments later. I started on the flat recreation trail which led to the true trailhead. The couple caught up to and passed me as I read the trail sign at the trailhead.
Immediately, the trail began steeply ascending up a side canyon. I passed the couple and didn't see them again until my descent (It turned out they went back to their mini-van for some forgotten medicine.) The trail follows Dead Horse Creek to a fork well up in the canyon. From there, it leaves the canyon floor following the rough edge of a point separating the forks in the canyon. At the top of this last steep climb, it reached the namesake Hanging Lake, a good sized pool fed by multiple cascades on the far side. A boardwalk crossed the near side with the lake to the left and a steep, but wooded drop-off on the right. I continued up the canyon a short distance beyond the end of the official trail and found some great views, but missed side-trail to spouting rock in the process.

Though it was not a long trail, the Hanging Lake trail was a very steep trail. I took this picture very near Hanging Lake about a 1,000 up and a bit more than a mile from the trailhead.

My destination for the hike, Hanging Lake.

I continued past Hanging Lake along a unofficial trail to a high point on the edge of the canyon where I could look back on the side canyon and across Glenwood Canyon to the highlands beyond.

Hanging Lake Trail along Dead Horse Creek

At the bottom of the trail, the side canyon opened into the main canyon. From the still elevated trail, I got a good view of the Colorado River flowing through the Glenwood Canyon.

The trailhead for the Hanging Lake Trail lay about a half-mile west of the parking area. Connecting the two was this recreation trail that runs the length of the canyon.

From the recreation trail, you can look across the river to see the east portals of the middle set of tunnels along the interstate highway. They are called the Hanging Lake Tunnels

Approaching the easternmost of the tunnels on in the canyon. The eastbound lanes, in which I'm driving, actually go around the same promontory that the westbound lanes tunnel through.

It was so pretty that this guy couldn't stay on the road. He's probably taking a picture. Some People!