Long before I knew the weather forecast, I identified last Saturday to emerge from my winter torpor. Having spent the long winter hunkered down in Philadelphia with but a short trip to Key West in January to stretch my legs, I was anxious to get out of town for a day. I originally planned to rent a car the first weekend in March--which had ideal weather for a daytrip. Learning of an opportunity to tour the site where the Hindenburg crashed in Lakehurst, New Jersey on a tour only offered the second Saturday of the month, I adapted my plans to participate.
I woke up Saturday to predicted wet weather. I intended to take the underground trolley to the car rental agency at the train station, but for whatever reason the line was not active. Having walked 3 blocks already, I chose to continue on foot the remaining 10 even though my 2-for-$10 umbrella was little help against the rain in the gusty winds.
After leaving the car rental counter, my first thought was "uh-oh" when I saw a Toyota Prius in the assigned space number. Without any sudden acceleration episodes, it turned out to be a fun car to try, though interior layout was a little too goofy for my liking. It did save me about $6 in gas versus a tradition 30 MPG rental.
Full Screen VersionThe pleasant drive to the tour rendezvous point in a church parking lot took about an hour and half. I arrived just before the appointed time (9:30 AM) and joined a few other cars to wait for the volunteer tour guides (both Navy veterans) who arrived shortly thereafter. However, we did not actually begin the caravan to the active Navy base until 10:00 AM.
We drove directly to the crash site. They didn't offer any narrative, but I that suspect had the weather been friendlier, we would have received an introduction. A small plaque, dirigible-shaped wind-vane, and yellow chain mark the site, while the massive hangar built to house the US military airship program dominated the background.
Hindenburg Crash Site
A small display room in that hangar was the next stop on the tour. Inside one guide talked about the Hindenburg disaster before passing the baton to another who went in to a lot of detail on the base and the US Navy's airship program. From the display room, we entered the main bay of the 800-ft long hangar, the most impressive site of the day with a ceiling towering far over head, forceful winds lashing against the building and rain dripping and pooling around us. The tour continued for another hour, touching on interesting military topics not related to airships before ending in another display room filled with scores of model planes among other artifacts. I left a little before noon.
Inside Hangar No. 1
The weather, an annoyance at the first stop, utterly ruined the second, Monmouth Battlefield. Somewhat surprised to find the door even unlocked, I started in the visitor center. The building, showing its age (ca. 1960) and the displays, informative but also dated, testify to New Jersey's fiscal plight. But I was glad to have somewhere to browse and the full-length windows provided a good view of the central part of the battlefield. In the first major battle after the Valley Forge winter, American earned its first open-field victory against British regulars in the war. Monmouth was also the last major battle fought in the northern states.
Monmouth Battlefield
I tried to brave to elements and get a closer look at the battlefield but didn't get off the main patio. Had I stayed out in such an unfavorable combination of wind, clod, and rain, I assuredly would have brought back a special souvenir, one of the medical variety. It is a true shame, because the battlefield is well preserved and quite scenic. The park brochure showed multiple trails with wayside signs scattered about, all I am sure I would have found interesting.
I spent the last part of the day at Sandy Hook, the corner of New Jersey opposite Long Island. Here the weather, coming right off the Atlantic, really blew with force. I stopped at the main visitor center, only the fourth person to enter all day, but didn't stay long. The lighthouse and history museum both further in the park, closed at five, if not sooner on account of the weather. I did venture out on to the beach, walking backward to shield my face from the slashing, sand-filled winds. There I got a good view of the rough ocean surf and the historic life-saving station that is now the visitor center.
Sandy Hook Life Saving Station
Sandy Hook lighthouse is the oldest extant lighthouse in the country and the only one to predate the Revolutionary War. I wasn't even sure it was open, but a knock on the lighthouse keepers house main door summoned a young, enthusiastic ranger. He was happy to take me up in the lighthouse, the first and most likely only visitor to do so the entire day. Clouds obscured all but the peninsula immediately surrounding the beacon. On a clear day, Manhattan is clearly visible.
Sandy Hook Lighthouse
The ranger recommended I next stop at a coastal battery, where volunteers were working on restoration work. When I arrived another ranger discouraged me from bothering them so I continued on to the history house, which turned out to be a restored officer's house on the former army base, Fort Hancock. The park service modeled to house to represent the typical quarters of a WWII-era officer. Again as the only visitor of the day, I got a personal tour. Normally, they leave people to wander about and read the signs. Like the guy at the lighthouse, the college-age ranger was quite enthusiastic. One room, the sewing room, had an old Simplicity pattern, a company based in Niles, on display.
History House on Officers Row
Before leaving the park, I walked around the abandoned buildings of Fort Hancock for short while. Though still miserable, the weather here permitted at least a short perambulation without great risk to my health. I returned to the car with my jeans, socks, and shoes complete soaked.
Fort Hancock Parade Grounds
On the way back to Philadelphia, I stopped at Cherry Hill Mall, my company's flagship property, to inspect the recently completed renovation. It was my first visit to the mall since the grand reopening. I had dinner in the food court and dodged the throngs of teenagers, a demographic not well-represented in downtown Philadelphia.
After dropping the car at 30th Street station, I enjoyed a nice walk home under conditions much nicer and more sedate that at the day's beginning.
