![]() |
63. Alaska |
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
Alaska Trip Photos
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Hawaii
What better way to follow-up a trip to the 49th state, than with one to the 50th. It was not that much more expensive to tack a short stop in Hawaii on to my flight itinerary so rather than fly right back to Michigan, I spent the last weekend on Oahu. I came mostly to visit my brother and his family, but I also had a little time to myself. The pace was very different than in Alaska; as was the temperature with high 40 degree above a typical day in Alaska.
I spent most of the weekend with my brothers family. We played cards & board games at there house; watched my niece play her first diffidence game; attended church; and visited the Honolulu Zoo together. Friday & Saturday night, my nephew Alex stayed with me at my Waikiki hotel.
I had Sunday night & Monday to myself. I walked around Waikiki a lot, ate breakfast on the beach, and read a few chapters while reclined on my Lanai. I even took a brief dip in the ocean.
Now, I'm in the airport waiting for my departure back to Michigan & thinking about where I'll go next after I'm rested up from this trip.
Friday, August 26, 2011
Wrangell-St. Elias
For some reason, my second-to-last post from Alaska didn't publish. It covered my 3 days off the grid in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. To get to my lodging deep in the interior of the park, the nation's largest, I left the car behind and rode the last 60 miles on a van shuttle. It was a better option than driving the narrow, washboard road myself. Called the McCarthy Road, it was built over an abandoned railroad & is notorious for flat tires.
After getting settled in my hotel room, I set out on a half day hike to the long abandoned Bonanza Mine. It was the most challenging hike of the trip, requiring a 4.5 miles to climb up 3,800 feet. In all that distance, I only passed two other people.
I dedicated the next day to a hike on nearby Root Glacier with a local guide service. It turned out I was the only one signed up which meant the two of us--my guide & I--could cover a lot more ground. By far, the highlight was shuffling through an ice cave that went deep in to the glacier.
My last day in the park, I toured the towering copper mill that once processed some of the highest grade copper ore ever found. It rises 14 stories above the main street level, taking advantage of the steeply pitched hillside. The park service has completed some basic preservation work, but for the most part the industrial ruin appears in a state of slow decay.
To get back to my car I eschewed the road for a short flight, which took a fraction of the time to cover the same distance.
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Mat-Su Valley
I completed my Alaskan explorations with a low key day in the Mat-Su Valley, which is a name based in shorthand for the two rivers that make up the region. I started with a visit to Independence Mine Historic Site, which was above the valley in Hatcher Pass. It was a similar to Kennecott, but smaller. The biggest difference is they mined gold & not copper, but of course that was not evident to me on the surface.
Dropping in to the valley proper, I spent thebetter part of the rest of the day near Palmer. It was settled during the depression by transplant Midwestern farmers as part of a New Deal program. It is still the agricultural heart of the state, but is small compared to Lower 48 standards.
My first stop, the Musk Ox Farm is of a more recent vintage. Founded in the 1950s to domesticate that animal in order to harvest the soft underwool, it moved to Palmer a couple decades later. At the Colony House Museum, I toured a relocated home of one of the original pioneer families. Next at the visitor center, I started to watch a video I expected to be a short film, but was actually a full-length documentary. It was a high quality production, but I only watched the first half before wanteingto move on.
Earlier at breakfast, a fellow B&B guest gave me a ticket for the state fair which had opened that day. Too good an opportunity to pass up, I used it. The fair was a lot like any other, but the setting between the Chugach & Talkeetna Mountains was unsurpassed. Oh & I doubt many other fairs show 700 pound gourds.
Save for killing about 20 minutes at the botanical garden before I needed to return the car that pretty much ended my time in the 49th state. I spent pretty much the rest of the day getting ready to head to my next destination.
Fairbanks
I used Fairbanks as a transition between Denali & Wrangell-St. Elias National Parks. It was a good place to take care of a couple 'travel errands'. My main point-of-interest stop was University of Alaska's Museum of the North. It was highly recommended in both my guide book & by some people I met along the trip. I can see why. Like the Anchorage Museum, it is a mix of history & art. Of the two, I like the Fairbanks Institution better. Before leaving Fairbanks, I also went to a botantical garden & Pioneerpark, both curious stops but I didn't spend long at either.
I got my first view of the Trans-Alaska Pipine north of town. I continued a couple miles to 60 degrees north parallel, perhaps the closest I'll ever get to the North Pole. Driving south, I got my best view of Mt. McKinley, 150 miles away & it was better than any I had while in Denali. Another stop at Big Delta Historic Park, home of Rika's Roadhouse put me even further behind schedule. I drove the last hour to Glenallen in the dark, rarity for me in these long Alaskan days.
Sunday, August 21, 2011
Denali National Park
I spent the entire day in Denali National Park. The weather far surpassed the forecast. Though the clouds never completely disappeared, they thinned enough that I regretted leaving my sunglasses behind in the car. They even parted enough for a fleeting glimpse of Mount McKinley toward the end of the day.
I spent more than half the day on a shuttle bus riding to the visitor center in the middle of the park. Along the way we spotted a lot of wildlife: moose, grizzly bears, & a ed fox. On the way back, we added a wolf & coyote to the list.
I spent about 6 hours in and around the visitor center, mostly hiking. First, I tackled the maintained trail up 1,000 feet for panoramic views. Then, I desended along social trails Sunset Creek. I tried to find a way across, but the main channel always seemed to wide, swift, & cold to attempt a crossing. I bushwacked my way back the park road which took me the rest of the way to the visitor center. Unlike most parks they encourage off-trail hiking here & the was my brief foray in to the wilderness.
My original plan was to camp deeper in the park, but I tanker that idea because of the dismal forecast. Now, with the sun shining I'm kind of regretting that call. Still, I had a great time in the park and if exhaustion is any measure I leave with a pretty good take on the park.
Saturday, August 20, 2011
George Parks Highway
The weather was poor again today as I drove to Denali National Park. I didn't see Mt. McKinley once on the during the 200 mile journey. Low clouds obscured all the taller mountains in the Alaska Range.
In spite of the weather, I really enjoyed the drive along the George Parks Highway. It is a wide smooth road through beautiful forests. There is very little traffic & very few commercial establishments. I did make two detours along the way.
First, I stopped in Talkeetna, purportedly the inspiration for Northern Exposure. There, I had a brunch of blueberry sourdough pancakes. I also stopped in Denali State Park for what I first thought would be a quick stroll around Byers Lake, but actually ended up being much longer than I expected. It was a good hike under the conditions. It would have been much better with clear skies.
Friday, August 19, 2011
Western Kenai
I wrapped up my time around Kenai with two days in the western half of the peninsula. Yesterday, I stopped to see my brother's inlaws who are working on a cabin along the Kenai River. They were kind enough to entertain and house me for day amongst everything else they have to do.
In the middle of the day, we drove about an hour to a state park along the Cook Inlet. Clouds hid most of the mountains on the far side of the water. I understand its a very dramatic backdrop when the skies are clear. The beach was scenic in its own right with jagged rocks and a creek emptying into the sea. We drove right on to the beach. I was happy to serve some productive function loading a few heavy rocks for use at their property. For dinner, they cooked halibut they had recently caught. Then we sat around the fire until well past sunset, which incidentally was around 10:00.
Today I did a lot of driving. I drove all the way to Homer and back past Anchorage to Wasilla, the town Sarah Palin made famous. I am just staying the night here before moving on to Denali tomorrow. The weather was pretty bad all day. It rained almost non-stop, though never very heavy. I walked around Homer & had lunch (baked salmon). I broke up all the driving with a 5-mile, level hike to Russian River Falls. I saw a few salmon leaping up the rapids, but no bears trying to eat them.
Wednesday, August 17, 2011
Exit Glacier
I stayed in Kenai Chords National Park for a second day, this time in the one part of the park accessible by car, Exit Glacier. I started with the 10:00 AM ranger walk to the side of the glacier. Then, I started up the Harding Ice Field trail. I only intended to go 2.5 miles up the 4 mile trail, but the views really started to get good at that point so I pressed on to the end of trail for sweeping views of the expansive ice field that is the source for all the glaciers in the park.
The hike took most of the day, but I did have some time after getting back to the trailhead, which I used to poke around the toe of the glacier.
Kenai Fjords Glacier Cruise
On Monday, I took a full-day cruise into Kenai Fjords National Park. I signed up because I wanted to see tide water glaciers. I didn't expect to enjoy the wildlife along the journey to the glaciers as Michael I did. We saw all kinds of marine life including humpback whales, orcas, sea otters, & harbor seals. The ultimate destination for our cruise was Northwestern Glacier. Split in two distinct sections; one pours over the mountain almost vertically, the other sweeps around in a long arc.
We got back to port at 6:00 PM, which gave me four hours to tackle Mount Marathon. Every year there is a foot race up the 3,000 ft peak which hovers over the little town. The winner usually takes about 40 minutes to complete the two mile course. I barely made it halfway before running out of time & wisely opting to turn around. I did make it high enough for some spectacular views of Seward, Resurrection Bay, and the
Kenai Mountains.
Tuesday, August 16, 2011
Seward Highway
I did take a short hike up the side of the mountains to even better views. I also drove through the country'so longest railway tunnel. It had a pair of DR tracks running down the middle. The tracks were actually there first; the road was added later.
Monday, August 15, 2011
Camp Abby with Apologies to Abby
The economics of lodging in Alaska induced me to try something new, tent camping. Yesterday, I set up my tent for the first time on the road. I admit it was the worst looking tent job in the campground, but it kept me dry & warm on a rainy Alaskan night. I plan to mix camping with lodging for the rest of the trip. Considering what an average room costs here, the equipment will pay for itself in two nights. And who knows maybe I'll use it some more once I return to the 'Lower 49'.
Sunday, August 14, 2011
Anchorage
I started my Alaska adventure with a day focused in Anchorage. The state's largest city and commercial center, it is about the size of South Bend.
I began the day orienting myself first on foot & then on a guided trolley tour. I don't plan to spend a lot of time indoors, but I did make a point do stop at the city's art & history museum. In an unexpected twist, I enjoyed the art section more than the history gallery. There were lots of magnificent landscapes of Alaska. I even recognized the name of the primary artist, Laurence, from an Antiques Roadshow episode I recently saw.
After one more indoor attraction, an unexceptional, but slightly worthwhile film on the 1964 earthqauke not part of the museum, it was time to get outdoors in earnest. I rented a bike for 3 hours to ride a bike path that follows the Cook Inlet. The trail passes right under the flight path for one of the airport runways. I watched a couple jumbojet fly overhead. On the way back, I rode by the float plane harbor to watch some smaller craft take off & land.
I had dinner at the Moose's Tooth, a pizza pub recommended to me by a passenger on the flight to Anchorage. Incredibly, I still had time for a 'warm-up' hike. I climbed Flattop Mountain in the Chugach Range to the southeast of town. At 4 miles, it wasn't terribly long, but the trail guide said it was an 1,800 foot ascent. My GPS recorded 1,500. Guessu which number I believe. Either way ,the views were spectacular, not only at the top, but on the way up.
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Alaska
I just touched-down in Alaska where I'll spend the next two weeks. I've got a lot of activities to planned for the coming days. The flight from Minneapolis gave me a taste of what is ahead of me in Alaska.
when I bought the ticket, I intentionally selected a window seat on the right side of the plane, because my guidebook suggested that side had the best views approaching Anchorage. For the first time, I didn't want an upgrade, but I got oneanyway. m It is hard to turn down 1st class service on a 6 hour flight & it was too late even if I wanted.
Most of the flight was pretty uneventful, but when we approached the Coastal Range the views where something else even from my side. But soon, I was staring at ocean while the other side was exposed to Alaska's grand mountains. I hesitantly asked the attendant if there were any right-side window seats if it meant moving back to--gulp-- coach. There weren't but the she arranged for me to switch seats temporarily with a nearby passenger who was accommodating to the request. That's where I got this picture.
I'll try to update my blog regularly while I'm here, but its not too promising. I don't even have mobile data in the Anchorage airport. Since I wasn't pleased with the picture quality on my shuttle launch trip, I'll also upload some higher resolution pictures to a Picasa web album, but I don't know a good way to directly link those to my blog from my phone.
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Madeline Bertrand County Park
Since I returned to Michigan from Florida, the weather has been consistently hot and humid. Today came the first real break in that trend. I should be at home planning my next big trip--I leave on Friday--but it is way too nice to stay indoors so I came to Madeline Bertrand County Park to enjoy the outdoors for little bit.
I had my high school graduation party here. That is probably not the last time I visited, but it has been awhile. They still have the disc golf course, and it appears well used. I'm just going to take a short hike myself. I've only made it as far as the river shelter that overlooks the St. Joe.
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Thursday, August 4, 2011
Greenfield Village & Henry Ford Museum
I went back to Dearborn today to use the other tickets I bought yesterday. I spent most of my time at Greenfield Village, but finished early enough to go to the Henry Ford Museum as well. The Village is a collection of historic & reproduction buildings that Ford started assembling in th 20s. Throughout the day they have short re-enactment performs around the park. I watched ones by Laura Ingalls Wilder, Thomas Edison, & the Wright Brothers. About the only thing I missed was a ride in an authentic Model T. I didn't have a lot of time at the museum, but was able to get through most exhibits if only a quick examination of some.
Greektown
For dinner, I drove to downtown Detroit. I haven't been down here for at least 7 years. I wanted to see what had changed and what hadn't. When I was going to UM, I would usually come to Detroit at least once or twice a year for a hockey game or the autoshow. Often we would eat in Greektown, a blocklong collection of mostly Greek restaurants that is now dominated by a casino. I ate at pizzapapolis, which could have the best deep dish anywhere. After eating, I rode the Peoplemover and walked around downtown for a little while, but it was late so I didn't have as much time as I would've liked.
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
Ford Factory Tour
Today, I went to Dearborn to visit the Henry Ford Museum. I've been to the accompanying Greenfield Village a couple of times, but never the museum. At the ticket counter, I saw that they had restarted giving factory tours of the nearby River Rouge plant. I bought a combo ticket including the factory & went to see it first. I spent so long there I'll have to come back tomorrow for the other attractions.
The factory tour was pretty cool. After watching two films & and viewing the complex from an observation platform, you enter the building where the F-150 is assembled. You're free to walk around a catwalk over one section of the plant at you're own pace. It was interesting to watch & try to figure out what was the responsibility of each station.
Elbel Field
I wasn't going to leave Michigan without a trip back to Ann Arbor. Yesterday I drove up to meet some college friends for dinner. I got to town a little early & had time to check put Elbel Field, the marching band's practice field. They're almost done installing new turf like they use in the stadium. It is a luxury we could only dream about in my day. Then, the field was asphalt pavement.
Monday, August 1, 2011
Grand Mere State Park
I parked on the north end of the dunes and climbed the first trail up a dune that I could find. This track led me into a woodland and eventually to some lakeside dunes. I walked a little more than a half-mile down the beach before probing back in to the dunes. After another long-segment through the woodlands, I came to a dune I recognized climbing as a kid. I was already half-way to the top, but still ended up quite winded when I reached the top.
Full Screen Version
From here, I decided it was time to head back to the car. To make things a little more interesting, I opted to rely solely on my innate sense of direction rather than my GPS. I ended hiking some extra distance and a unnecessary dune-climb, but soon enough found myself on a recognizable path which took me back to the car.





